Chifukwa Chake Muyenera Kusamala za Greenwashing - ndi Momwe Mungadziwire

Zamkati

• Greenwashing ndi chiyani kwenikweni?
• Kuwonjezeka kwa Greenwashing
• Zotsatira za Kusamba kwa Greenwash
• Mbendera Yaikulu Kwambiri Yofiyira
• 1. Imati ndi "100% yokhazikika."
• 2. Zomwe akunenazi sizikumveka.
• 3. Palibe satifiketi iliyonse yosunga zotsutsazi.
• 4. Kampaniyo imaganiza kuti zinthu zake ndizoti zitha kusinthidwa kapena kuwonongeka.
• Momwe Mungakhalire Wogula Wodalirika ndikupanga Kusintha
• Onaninso za

Kaya mukukopa kugula chovala chatsopano kapena chovala chatsopano chokongola, mwina mungayambe kusaka kwanu ndi mndandanda wazomwe muyenera kukhala nazo zazitali ngati momwe mungatengere kwa wogulitsa mukamayang'ana nyumba. Ma leggings ofunikira atha kukhala owonetsa squat, okhathamira thukuta, wokwera kwambiri, kutalika kwa akakolo, komanso mkati mwa bajeti. Seramu ya nkhope ingafune zosakaniza zovomerezeka ndi dermatologist, zida zolimbana ndi ziphuphu, mawonekedwe ofewetsa, komanso kukula koyenda bwino kuti mupeze malo omwe mumachita.

Tsopano, ogula ambiri akutenga "zabwino kwa chilengedwe" pamndandanda wawo wazinthu zofunika. Pakufufuza kwa Epulo komwe LendingTree ya anthu opitilira 1,000 aku America, 55% ya omwe adafunsidwa adati ali okonzeka kulipira ndalama zambiri pazogulitsa zachilengedwe, ndipo 41% yazaka zikwizikwi akuti akuti akuponya ndalama zambiri pazinthu zachilengedwe kuposa kale. Nthawi yomweyo, kuchuluka kwa katundu waogula kukudzitamandira pakufuna kwawo phukusi lawo; mu 2018, zinthu zogulitsidwa ngati "zokhazikika" zidapanga 16.6 peresenti ya msika, kuchokera pa 14,3 peresenti mu 2013, malinga ndi kafukufuku wochokera ku New York University's Stern's Center for Sustainable Business.

Koma mosiyana ndi mwambi wakale umenewo, chifukwa chakuti umauwona, sukutanthauza kuti uyenera kuukhulupirira. Chidwi cha anthu pazinthu zokongoletsa chilengedwe chikukula, momwemonso chizolowezi chotsuka zobiriwira chimakula.

Greenwashing ndi chiyani kwenikweni?

Mwachidule, kusamba kobiriwira ndi nthawi yomwe kampani imadziwonetsera yokha, yabwino, kapena ntchito - mwina pakutsatsa, kulongedza, kapena cholinga chake - monga zomwe zimakhudza chilengedwe kuposa momwe zimakhalira, akutero Ashlee Piper, kukhazikika katswiri ndi mlembi wa Perekani Sh t: Chitani Zabwino. Khalani Bwino. Sungani Planet. (Gulani, $ 15, amazon.com). "Zimachitika ndi makampani amafuta, zopangira zakudya, zopangira zovala, zokongoletsa, zowonjezera," akutero. "Ndizobisalira - zili paliponse."

Mwachitsanzo: Kuwunika kwa 2,219 ku 2009 ku North America komwe kunapanga "zobiriwira" - kuphatikiza thanzi ndi kukongola, nyumba, ndi zoyeretsa - zidapeza kuti 98% anali ndi mlandu wosamba. Mankhwala opaka mano ankanenedwa kuti ndi "zachilengedwe zonse" komanso "zachilengedwe" popanda umboni wotsimikizira izi, masiponji amatchedwa "okonda dziko lapansi," ndipo mafuta odzola amatchedwa "'oyera mwachilengedwe" - mawu omwe ogula ambiri amaganiza amatanthauza "otetezeka" kapena "wobiriwira," zomwe sizikhala choncho nthawi zonse, malinga ndi kafukufukuyu.

Koma kodi mawu amenewa ndi aakulu choncho? Apa, akatswiri amasokoneza momwe ma greenwashing amakhudzira makampani ndi ogula, komanso zomwe muyenera kuchita mukaziwona.

Kuwonjezeka kwa Greenwashing

Chifukwa cha intaneti, zoulutsira mawu, komanso njira zachikale zolankhulirana, ogwiritsa ntchito m'zaka zaposachedwa aphunzira zambiri pazokhudza zachilengedwe komanso chikhalidwe cha anthu zokhudzana ndi kupanga katundu, atero a Tara St. James, omwe adayambitsa Re: Source (d), nsanja yolangizira njira zokhazikika, magulitsidwe, ndi kupeza nsalu m'mafashoni. Nkhani imodzi yotereyi: Chaka chilichonse, makampani opanga nsalu, omwe opanga zovala amayimira pafupifupi magawo awiri mwa atatu, amadalira matani 98 miliyoni azinthu zosasinthika - monga mafuta, feteleza, ndi mankhwala - kuti apange. Pochita izi, matani 1.2 biliyoni a mpweya wowonjezera kutentha amatulutsidwa m'mlengalenga, kuposa ndege zonse zapadziko lonse lapansi komanso maulendo apanyanja aphatikizidwa, malinga ndi bungwe la Ellen MacArthur Foundation, bungwe lachifundo lakuyang'ana kuthamangitsa kusintha kwachuma chonyansa. (Ichi ndi chifukwa chimodzi chokha chifukwa chake ndikofunikira kugula zovala zoyenera.)

Kukhalanso kwatsopano kumeneku kunapangitsa kuti pakhale kufunika kwakukulu kwa zinthu zopangidwa moyenera ndi mitundu yamabizinesi, yomwe makampani poyamba amaganiza kuti ndiyosakhalitsa, kachitidwe kake, akufotokoza. Koma zoloserazo zinali zabodza, akutero St. James." Tsopano popeza tikudziwa kuti pali vuto lanyengo, ndikuganiza kuti makampani ayamba kuganiza mozama," akutero.

Kuphatikizika kwa kufunikira kwa ogula pazinthu zokongoletsa chilengedwe komanso kufunikira kwazinthu mwadzidzidzi kuti zikhale zokhazikika - kutanthauza kupanga ndi kupanga m'njira yomwe siziwononga dziko lapansi komanso kuchuluka kwa anthu pazinthu zake - zidapanga zomwe St. James amachitcha "chabwino mkuntho "posamba zobiriwira. "Makampani tsopano ankafuna kuti ayambe kugwira ntchito koma mwina sankadziwa momwe angachitire, kapena sankafuna kuyika nthawi ndi zothandizira kuti asinthe zomwe zili zofunika," akutero. "Chifukwa chake adatsata machitidwewa polumikizana ndi zomwe akuchita, ngakhale mwina sakuchita." Mwachitsanzo, kampani yopanga zovala zogwira ntchito imatha kutcha ma leggings ake "okhazikika" ngakhale kuti zinthuzo zili ndi 5 peresenti yokha ya polyester yobwezerezedwanso ndipo amapangidwa kutali ndi komwe akugulitsidwa, zomwe zimawonjezera kuchuluka kwa mpweya wa chovalacho. Mtundu wa kukongola ukhoza kunena kuti milomo yake kapena mafuta opaka pathupi opangidwa ndi zinthu zachilengedwe ndi "zokonda zachilengedwe" ngakhale zili ndi mafuta a kanjedza - zomwe zimathandizira kuwononga nkhalango, kuwononga malo okhala nyama zomwe zatsala pang'ono kutha, komanso kuipitsa mpweya.

Nthawi zina, kusamba kwa kampani kumakhala kosavuta komanso kwadala, koma nthawi zambiri, a St. James amakhulupirira kuti zimachitika chifukwa chosowa maphunziro kapena kufalitsa zabodza pakampani. Makampani opanga mafashoni, mwachitsanzo, opanga, opanga, komanso ogulitsa ndi otsatsa amakhala akugwira ntchito payokha, zambiri pakupanga zisankho sizichitika magulu onse ali mchipinda chimodzi, akutero. Ndipo kudulidwa uku kungapangitse zinthu zomwe zimawoneka ngati masewera osweka a foni. "Zidziwitso zitha kuchepetsedwa kapena kusokonezedwa kuchokera ku gulu lina kupita ku gulu lina, ndipo ikafika ku dipatimenti yotsatsa, uthenga wakunja suli wofanana ndendende ndi momwe unayambira, kaya ukuchokera ku dipatimenti yokhazikika kapena dipatimenti yokonza mapulani," adatero. akutero St. James. "Mosiyana ndi izi, dipatimenti yotsatsa malonda mwina sangamvetse zomwe akulankhula kunja, kapena akusintha mauthenga kuti akhale 'okoma' ku zomwe akuganiza kuti wogula akufuna kumva."

Chowonjezera vuto ndikuti palibe kuyang'anira kwakukulu. Green Guides a Federal Trade amapereka chitsogozo cha momwe otsatsa angapewere kupereka zonena zachilengedwe zomwe "sizabwino kapena zachinyengo" pansi pa Gawo 5 la FTC Act; komabe, adasinthidwa komaliza mu 2012 ndipo samayankha kugwiritsa ntchito mawu oti "okhazikika" ndi "achilengedwe." FTC ikhoza kuyika dandaulo ngati wotsatsa akupereka zonena zabodza (taganizirani: kunena kuti chinthu chatsimikiziridwa ndi munthu wina ngati sichinayitanitse kapena kutcha chinthucho kuti ndi "chowonjezera cha ozoni," chomwe chimapereka molondola kuti mankhwalawo ndiotetezeka kwa mpweya wonse). Koma madandaulo 19 okha ndi omwe adasungidwa kuyambira 2015, ndi 11 okha m'makampani azakongola, azaumoyo, komanso mafashoni.

Zotsatira za Kusamba kwa Greenwash

Kuyitanitsa malo ophunzitsira kukhala "okhazikika" kapena kuyika mawu oti "zonse zachilengedwe" ponyamula nkhope kumatha kumveka ngati NBD, koma kusamba kobiriwira kumakhala kovuta m'makampani onse ndi ogula. "Zimapangitsa kuti pakhale kusakhulupirika pakati pa ogula ndi malonda, motero malonda omwe akuchita zomwe akuti akuchita tsopano akuwunikidwa mofanana ndi zomwe sizichita chilichonse," akutero a St. James. "Ndiye ogula sangakhulupirire kalikonse - zonena za certification, zonena zaudindo wopereka unyolo, zonena za zoyeserera zenizeni - motero zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kwambiri kusintha komwe kungachitike pamsika." (Zogwirizana: 11 Makina Okhazikika Ogwira Ntchito Oyenera Kuthetsa Thukuta)

Osanenapo, zimayika mtolo kwa ogula kuti afufuze mtundu kuti adziwe ngati mapindu a chilengedwe omwe amaperekedwa ndi ovomerezeka, akutero Piper. "Kwa ife omwe tikufunadi kuvota ndi dollar yathu, yomwe ndi chimodzi mwazinthu zofunika kwambiri zomwe tingachite monga aliyense payekha, zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kupanga zisankho zabwinozi," akutero. Ndipo pogula mosazindikira mankhwala kuchokera ku mtundu womwe uli ndi mlandu wotsuka wobiriwira, "mukuwapangitsa kuti apitirize kuchapa ndi matope a madzi okhazikika ndi chithandizo chanu cha ndalama," akuwonjezera St. James. (Chisankho china chabwino chomwe mungapange ndi dola yanu: Kuyiyika m'mabizinesi omwe ali ndi anthu ochepa.)

Mbendera Yaikulu Kwambiri Yofiyira

Ngati mukuyang'ana chinthu chokhala ndi zonena zowoneka bwino, mutha kunena kuti zakhala zobiriwira ngati muwona imodzi mwa mbendera zofiira izi. Muthanso kuyang'ananso ku Remake yopanda phindu kapena pulogalamu ya Good on You, yonse yomwe imayesa mtundu wamafashoni kutengera momwe machitidwe awo amakhalira.

Ndipo ngati simukudziwabe kapena mukungofuna zambiri, musawope kufunsa ndikutsutsa makampani pazomwe amachita (kudzera pawailesi yakanema, imelo, kapena makalata a nkhono) - kaya ndikufunsa kuti ndani adapanga masewera anu komanso komwe kuchuluka kwenikweni kwa pulasitiki wobwezerezedwanso womwe umalowa mu botolo la nkhope yanu, atero a St. James. "Sikukuloza zala kapena kudzudzula, koma tikufunsa kuti anthu azikhala ndi mlandu komanso kuwonekera poyera pazogulitsa ndikupatsa mwayi wogula kuti adziwe zambiri za momwe zinthu zimapangidwira komanso komwe zimapangidwira," akufotokoza.

1. Imati ndi "100% yokhazikika."

Pomwe pamakhala kuchuluka kwamanambala pazogulitsika, ntchito, kapena kampani yokhazikika, pamakhala mwayi woti ikutsukidwa, atero a St. James. "Palibe gawo lokhalitsa kukhazikika chifukwa kukhazikika sikumakhala sikelo - ndi ambulera yanjira zosiyanasiyana," akufotokoza. Kumbukirani, kukhazikika kumaphatikizaponso kusintha kosintha kwazinthu zachitukuko, ntchito, kuphatikiza, kuwononga ndi kumwa, ndipo chilengedwe, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zosatheka kuwerengera, akutero.

2. Zomwe akunenazi sizikumveka.

Mawu osabisa monga "opangidwa kuchokera kuzinthu zokhazikika" kapena "zopangidwa kuchokera kuzinthu zobwezerezedwanso" zosindikizidwa molimba mtima pazovala zama swing (pulasitiki kapena pepala lomwe mumavala zovala mutagula) nawonso akuyenera kusamala, akutero St. James. "Makamaka ngati mukuyang'ana zovala zogwirira ntchito, ndikofunikira kuti musangoyang'ana zomwe cholembedwacho chimanena chifukwa zitha kungonena kuti 'zopangidwa ndi mabotolo apulasitiki obwezerezedwanso,' ndipo zikuwoneka bwino," akutero. "Koma mukayang'ana chizindikiro cha chisamaliro, chinganene kuti 5 peresenti ya polyester yowonjezeredwa ndi 95 peresenti.

Zomwezi zimafotokozedwanso m'mawu oti "wobiriwira," "wachilengedwe," "woyera," "wokonda zachilengedwe," "wodziwa," komanso "organic," akuwonjezera Piper. "Ndikuganiza kuti mukuwona ndi zinthu zokongola zomwe makampani ena [amadzigulitsa ngati] 'kukongola koyera' - zitha kutanthauza kuti pali mankhwala ochepa oti muvale m'thupi lanu, koma sizitanthauza kuti kupanga kapena kuyika kwake ndi eco. -wochezeka, "akufotokoza. (Zogwirizana: Kodi Pali Kusiyana Kotani Pakati pa Zaukhondo ndi Zokongola Zachilengedwe?)

3. Palibe satifiketi iliyonse yosunga zotsutsazi.

Ngati zovala zogwirira ntchito zikuti zovala zawo zimapangidwa kuchokera ku 90% ya thonje kapena dzina lokongola limadzinena kuti ndi 100% yopanda nawo mbali popanda kupereka umboni uliwonse wotsimikizira izi, tengani izi ndi mchere. Kubetcha kwanu kopambana kuti muwonetsetse kuti malankhulidwe awa ndiowona ndikuyang'ana zikalata zodalirika za chipani chachitatu, atero a St.

Pazovala zopangidwa ndi thonje wakuda ndi ulusi wina wachilengedwe, a St. James amalimbikitsa kufunafuna Chitsimikizo cha Global Organic Textile Standard. Chitsimikizo ichi chimatsimikizira kuti nsalu zimapangidwa ndi 70% ya ulusi wotsimikizika wa organic ndipo miyezo ina yazachilengedwe ndi antchito amakwaniritsidwa pokonza ndikupanga. Ponena za zovala zomwe zili ndi zida zobwezerezedwanso, a Piper akulimbikitsa kuti muyang'ane satifiketi ya Ecological and Recycled Textile Standard kuchokera ku Ecocert, kampani yomwe imatsimikizira kuchuluka kwenikweni kwa zinthu zobwezerezedwanso munsalu ndi komwe zidachokera, komanso zonena zina zachilengedwe zomwe ingapange ( ganizirani: peresenti ya madzi osungira kapena CO2).

Certification za Trade Trade, monga dzina la Fair Trade Certified lochokera ku Fair Trade USA, zithandizanso kuti zovala zanu zizipangidwa m'mafakitole omwe amadzipereka kutsata miyezo yantchito yovomerezeka padziko lonse lapansi, kupereka phindu lalikulu kwa ogwira ntchito, kuyesetsa kuteteza ndi kubwezeretsa chilengedwe ndi pitilizani ntchito yoyeretsa (yomwe imatchedwa kuti yowononga kwambiri). Pazinthu zokongola, Ecocert ilinso ndi chiphaso cha zodzoladzola zachilengedwe ndi zachilengedwe zotchedwa COSMOS zomwe zimatsimikizira kupanga ndi kukonza zinthu zachilengedwe, kugwiritsa ntchito moyenera zachilengedwe, kusowa kwa zopangira petrochemical, ndi zina zambiri.

FTR, malonda ambiri omwe ali ndi ziphaso zachilengedwezi adzafuna kudzionetsera, atero a Piper. "Adzakhala owonekera bwino za izi, makamaka chifukwa maumboni onse akhoza kukhala okwera mtengo kwambiri kuti atenge ndikutenga nthawi yochulukirapo, chifukwa chake akhala ndi omwe amanyadira phukusi lawo," akufotokoza. Komabe, ziphasozi zitha kukhala zotsika mtengo ndipo nthawi zambiri zimafunikira nthawi yochulukirapo komanso mphamvu zofunsira, zomwe zingapangitse kuti mabizinesi ang'onoang'ono asavutike, atero a Piper. Ndipamene ndikofunikira kufikira mtunduwo ndikufunsa za zomwe akunena, zida zawo, ndi zosakaniza zawo. "Mukafunsa funso kuti muyese kupeza yankho lokhazikika ndipo akukupatsani mayankho odabwitsa ngati momwe angayankhire kapena zimangokhala ngati sakuyankha funso lanu, ndikupita ku kampani ina."

4. Kampaniyo imaganiza kuti zinthu zake ndizoti zitha kusinthidwa kapena kuwonongeka.

Ngakhale St. James sakanapita mpaka ponena kuti mankhwala amene amadzitamandira recyclability kapena biodegradability ndi wolakwa greenwashing, ndi chinachake kukhala ozindikira pogula latsopano poliyesitala activewear seti kapena pulasitiki mtsuko wa odana ndi ukalamba zonona. "Zimathandizira kuti anthu aziganiza kuti mtundu winawake umakhala ndiudindo kuposa momwe uliri," akufotokoza. "Mwachidziwitso, mwinamwake zinthu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mu jekete iyi zimasinthidwanso, koma ogula amazibwezeretsanso bwanji? Ndi machitidwe otani omwe ali m'dera lanu? Ngati ndikunena zoona ndi inu, palibe zambiri."

ICYDK, theka lokha la anthu aku America ndi omwe amatha kugwiritsa ntchito njira zowonjezeretsedweratu ndipo 21% ndi omwe amatha kusiya ntchito, malinga ndi The Recycling Project. Ndipo ngakhale ntchito zobwezeretsanso zikapezeka, zobwezeretsedwanso nthawi zambiri zimayipitsidwa ndi zinthu zomwe sizingagwiritsiridwenso ntchito (ganizirani: mapesi apulasitiki ndi matumba, ziwiya zodyera) ndi zotengera zauve zazakudya. Pazochitikazi, magulu akulu azinthu (kuphatikizapo zinthu zomwe akhoza amatenthedwa, kuwatumiza kumalo otayira zinyalala, kapena kutsukidwa munyanja, malinga ndi Columbia Climate School. TL; DR: Kutaya chidebe chanu chopanda kanthu cha mafuta odzola muzitsulo zobiriwira sizitanthauza kuti chiphwanyidwa ndikusandulika chinthu chatsopano.

Momwemonso, chinthu chomwe chili "compostable" kapena "biodegradable" akhoza kukhala bwino kwa chilengedwe pansi pa mikhalidwe yoyenera, koma anthu ambiri alibe mwayi wa kompositi tauni, akutero Piper. "[Zogulitsazo] zimapita kumalo otayirako, ndipo zotayiramo zimakhala ndi njala ya okosijeni ndi tizilombo tating'onoting'ono komanso kuwala kwadzuwa, zinthu zonse zofunika kuti ngakhale chinthu chosawonongeka chiwole," akufotokoza motero. Popanda kutchulapo, imayika udindo wazomwe zimakhudza chilengedwe kwa wogula, yemwe tsopano akuyenera kudziwa momwe angatayire mankhwala ake akafika kumapeto kwa moyo wake, atero a St. James. "Makasitomala sayenera kukhala ndiudindowo - ndikuganiza iyenera kukhala chizindikiritso," akutero. (Onani: Momwe Mungapangire Bin Yanyumba)

Momwe Mungakhalire Wogula Wodalirika ndikupanga Kusintha

Mukawona zina mwazizindikiro zosonyeza kuti masewera othamanga kapena shampoo ikutsukidwa ndi ubweya wobiriwira, chinthu choyenera kuchita ndikupewa kugula chinthucho mpaka kampaniyo itasintha, atero a James. "Ndikuganiza kuti zinthu zabwino kwambiri zomwe tingachite ndikuwononga zinthu zandalama zathu," akuwonjezera Piper. "Ngati mukumverera kuti ndinu wotsutsa-y ndipo muli ndi nthawi komanso chiwongolero, ndibwino kuti mulembe kalata mwachidule kapena imelo kwa woyang'anira kampani yachitetezo kapena mabungwe ku LinkedIn." M'kalata yofulumira ija, fotokozani kuti mukukayikira zonena za chizindikirocho ndikuyitanitsa kuti mupereke chidziwitso cholondola, atero a St.

Koma kugula zinthu zokongoletsa chilengedwe komanso kupewa dupes sizokhazo - kapena zabwino kwambiri - zomwe mungachite kuti muchepetse phazi lanu. "Chofunika kwambiri kwa ogula, kupatula kuti sagula chilichonse, ndikuchisamalira bwino, kuchisunga nthawi yayitali, ndikuwonetsetsa kuti chaperekedwa - osatayidwa kapena kutumizidwa kumalo onyamula katundu," akutero a St. James.

Ndipo ngati muli pansi ndipo mutha kupanga chigoba cha tsitsi lanu poyambira kapena kuwonjezerapo zovala zanu zogwirira ntchito, zabwinoko, akuwonjezera Piper. "Ngakhale ndizodabwitsa kuti anthu amafuna kugula mosadukiza, chinthu chabwino kwambiri chomwe tingachite ndi kugula zogulitsa kapena osangogula zinthu," akutero. "Simuyenera kugwera mumsampha wa inu kuti mugule njira yanu yokhazikika chifukwa siyiyankho."

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