Yesani Bakuchiol, Mlongo Wofatsa wa Retinol, Mlimi Wobzala Mwatsopano, Khungu Labwino

Zamkati

• Choyamba, retinol kwenikweni ndi chiyani ndipo chifukwa chiyani imagwira ntchito?
• Retinoid imayenda bwino:
  
• Kodi kukonda mozungulira bakuchiol kuli kwenikweni?
• Kodi muyenera kusintha?
• Mwachidule
• Sakanizani ndikusinthana ndi boma lomwe mumakonda:
  

Timaphatikizapo zinthu zomwe timaganiza kuti ndizothandiza kwa owerenga athu. Ngati mutagula maulalo omwe ali patsamba lino, titha kupeza ndalama zochepa. Nayi njira yathu.

Retinol ndichikhalidwe chodziwika bwino chagolide pakhungu lanu labwino koma ndichifukwa chake sayansi imati muyenera kuyamba kuyang'ana bakuchiol.

Aliyense amene wasanthula momwe angachitire bwino mizere yabwino, zophulika, kapena malo amdima mwina atakumana ndi buzzword mu sayansi yosamalira khungu: retinol.

Ngati simunatero, retinol ndiye chida chothandizira pakhungu posintha zizindikiro zakukalamba. Zovuta zake komabe? Ndiwokhwima kwambiri pakhungu ndipo mukayamba kuigwiritsa ntchito, khungu lanu lingazolowere ndipo silikhala ndi maubwino owonjezera. Izi zikutanthauza kuti pamapeto pake mukwaniritse zotsatira zosalala, mutha kungokwera mphamvu yogwiritsira ntchito. Zikumveka ngati kudzipereka pakhungu.

Koma pakhala chowonjezera chatsopano chomwe chimapangitsa mafunde kukhala mlongo wofatsa wa retinol, yemwe amagwiranso ntchito matsenga amphamvu mofananamo. Bakuchiol (wotchedwa buh-KOO-chee-all) ndi chomera chomwe chomera chokongola chimatcha njira yachilengedwe, yosakhumudwitsa, komanso yosakaniza.

Koma kodi zitha kukhala zamphamvu komanso zopindulitsa monga zopangira ma dermatologists? Mothandizidwa ndi akatswiri komanso sayansi, tidasanthula.

Choyamba, retinol kwenikweni ndi chiyani ndipo chifukwa chiyani imagwira ntchito?

Retinol ndi OG wosamalira khungu pochotsa makwinya, mizere yabwino, ndi khungu lofewa. Ndiwo mtundu wachitatu wamphamvu kwambiri wa retinoid, womwe umachokera ku vitamini A, womwe umalimbikitsa kukonzanso khungu la khungu ndikupangitsa kupanga collagen. Kafukufuku akuwonetsa kuti milungu 12 yogwiritsira ntchito imatha kubweretsa khungu losalala, lolimba, komanso mozungulira khungu lowoneka ngati lachinyamata.

Kutanthauza: nkhawa zanu? Zophimbidwa!

Retinoid imayenda bwino:

• kapangidwe
• kamvekedwe
• kuchuluka kwa madzi
• hyperpigmentation ndi kuwonongeka kwa dzuwa
• ziphuphu zimatuluka komanso zimatuluka

Mitundu ya retinoid Pali mitundu isanu yama retinoid, yonse yomwe imagwira ntchito mosiyanasiyana. Retinol ndiye njira yachitatu yamphamvu kwambiri pamankhwala pomwe tretinoin ndi tazarotene zimapezeka ndi mankhwala okha.

Komabe, ngakhale ili njira yabwino yochezera - ndipo tikutanthauza zambiri - ya anthu, itha kukhala yankhanza kwambiri kwa iwo omwe ali ndi khungu lowoneka bwino.

Kafukufuku akuwonetsa kuti zovuta zimatha kukhala zowopsa monga kuyaka, kukulira, ndi dermatitis. Ndipo ndi chophatikizira chomwe chimalephera kugwira ntchito pakapita nthawi, imeneyo si nkhani yabwino kwa anthu omwe akuyenera kuyika zonse. Izi ndizomwe zidapangitsa kuti bakuchiol adziwike.

Kodi kukonda mozungulira bakuchiol kuli kwenikweni?

Bakuchiol yomwe ikubwera-ndikubwera ndi chomera chomwe akuti chakhala chikugwiritsidwa ntchito mu mankhwala obwezeretsa achi China ndi India kwazaka zambiri.

"Ndi antioxidant yomwe imapezeka m'mbewu ndi masamba a chomeracho Masalimo Corylifolia, ”Akufotokoza Dr. Debra Jaliman, pulofesa wothandizira mu dipatimenti ya zamankhwala ku Icahn School of Medicine ku Mount Sinai. "Kafukufuku wasonyeza kuti bakuchiol imathandiza kupewa mizere yabwino ndi makwinya, komanso imathandiza kutulutsa khungu, kutanuka, komanso kulimba."

Dr. Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology ku Mount Sinai Hospital, anati: "Amagwiritsa ntchito ma receptors omwe retinol imagwiritsa ntchito, ndichifukwa chake ambiri amawatcha kuti retinol m'malo mwake."

Zikuwonekeratu kuti zotsatira zofananazi ndichifukwa chake zimapangitsa retinol kuyendetsa ndalama zake.

Koma nchiyani chomwe chimapatsa bakuchiol m'mphepete mwake? Monga tanenera kale, ndi njira yachilengedwe, kutanthauza kuti sikuti sikungokhala kokhumudwitsa, ndi njira yabwino kwa iwo omwe amagula vegan, oyera, komanso polingalira za khungu monga chikanga, psoriasis, kapena dermatitis.

"Bakuchiol si vitamini A chochokera ndipo motero sizowakwiyitsa monga mankhwalawa," akutero Dr. Purvisha Patel. Ndipo kuyesedwa kochepa kumatsimikizira izi: Pakafukufuku, omwe adagwiritsa ntchito retinol adanenanso kuti khungu lawo ndi lobaya komanso lolimba.

Kodi muyenera kusintha?

Zimafika pamunthu payekha, zosowa zawo pakhungu, komanso malingaliro ake pazakukongola.

"[Bakuchiol] ali ndi mwayi woti asayambitse mkwiyo," akutero Zeichner, yemwe amanenanso kuti sizowopsa kugwiritsa ntchito bakuchiol. "Komabe, sizikudziwika ngati zothandizadi ngati retinol wachikhalidwe."

Jaliman amakhulupirira "simudzapeza zotsatira zofanana ndi retinol." Ndipo Patel akuvomereza. Ndemanga ya 2006 ikuwonetsa kuti retinol yaphunziridwa kuyambira 1984 ndipo yayesedwa ndi ophunzira ambiri kuposa bakuchiol.

Mutha kukhala kuti mukugwiritsa ntchito retinol Ngati mukugwiritsa ntchito chinthu chomwe chimalonjeza kuyendetsa bwino mizere, zikuwoneka kuti pali retinol mmenemo kale. Komabe, ngati sichinalengezedwe pamalowo, mwina sichikhala chambiri ndipo mwina chili pansi pamndandanda wazowonjezera.

"Palibe zambiri ndi [bakuchiol] kuyambira pano ndipo zitha kukhala zabwino," akutero Patel. "Retinol, komabe, ndichinthu choyesera-chowonadi chomwe chimapereka zomwe zimalonjeza m'malingaliro [momwe] amapatsidwa. Chifukwa chake, pakadali pano, diso la retinol (likadali) muyezo wagolidi wothandiza popangira khungu womwe umathandiza kuchepetsa mizere ndi makwinya. ”

Mwachidule

Sizimapweteka kugwiritsa ntchito bakuchiol, makamaka ngati muli ndi khungu lodziwika bwino kapena muli ndi chizolowezi chambiri chokhala ndi mankhwala angapo apakhungu. "Itha [kugwiritsidwanso ntchito] ngati chinthu cholowa," a Zeichner akuwonjezera.

Ndipo kwa iwo omwe ali ndi khungu lolimba, mutha kusakanikirana, kutengera malonda omwe mwasankha. “Khungu lanu litazoloŵera, mutha kuwonjezera retinol m'thupi lanu mtsogolo. Nthawi zina, mutha kugwiritsa ntchito bakuchiol ndi retinol palimodzi kuti mupindule nawo. ”

Kupatula apo, zosakaniza ndizofanana kuposa zosiyana, palibe imodzi yomwe imapambana inzake. "Zofananira," akuwonetsa Jaliman, ndiye mawu ofunikira omwe akatswiri amagwiritsa ntchito poyerekeza awiriwo. Ndi zinthu zoyenera, mwina simusowa kuti musankhe chimodzi kapena chimzake.

Kwa ma seramu hoarders ngati ife, ndizo za nkhani yabwino kwambiri kuposa kale lonse.

Sakanizani ndikusinthana ndi boma lomwe mumakonda:

• Chatsopano ku retinol? Yesani First Aid Beauty FAB Skin Lab Retinol Serum 0.25% Pure Concentrate ($ 58), Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Moisturizer ($ 32), kapena Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating Cream ($ 22)
• Mukuyang'ana bakuchiol? Yesani Ao Skincare # 5 Kukonzanso Kukonzanso Usiku Chithandizo ($ 90), Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum ($ 39), kapena Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum ($ 58)

Emily Rekstis ndi wolemba komanso wokongola wokhala ku New York City yemwe amalemba zolemba zambiri, kuphatikiza Greatist, Racked, ndi Self. Ngati sakulemba pakompyuta yake, mutha kumupeza akuwonera kanema wamagulu, akudya burger, kapena akuwerenga buku la mbiri ya NYC. Onani zambiri za ntchito yake tsamba lake, kapena mumutsatire Twitter.