Momwe Mayi Uyu Anagonjetsera Mantha Ake ndi Kujambula Chithunzi Cha Mafunde Omwe Anaphetsa Bambo Ake

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Amber Mozo adayamba kujambula kamera ali ndi zaka 9 zokha. Chidwi chake chakuwona dziko kudzera mu mandala chidalimbikitsidwa ndi iye, bambo yemwe adamwalira akujambula amodzi mwamphamvu kwambiri padziko lapansi: Banzai Pipeline.

Lero, ngakhale abambo ake amwalira mosayembekezereka komanso zomvetsa chisoni, mwana wazaka 22 watsata mapazi ake ndikupita kudziko lonse lapansi kujambula nyanja komanso za iwo omwe amakonda kukhala pamenepo.

"Ntchitoyi ikhoza kukhala pachiwopsezo chachikulu, makamaka mukakhala pafupi kwambiri ndi mafunde osakhululuka ngati Pipeline," Mozo adauza. Maonekedwe. "Kuti muthane ndi chinthu choterocho, nthawi yanu iyenera kukhala yabwino kwambiri kuti musavulazidwe. Koma zotsatira zake ndi zochitika zake zimakhala zodabwitsa kwambiri moti zimakupangitsani kukhala wofunika kwambiri."

Koma mpaka posachedwapa, Mozo sankaganiza kuti atha kujambulanso zamisala zomwe zinapha bambo ake.

"Ngati simukudziŵa bwino za mafunde, Pipeline ndi yovuta kwambiri osati chifukwa cha mafunde ake otalika mamita 12, koma chifukwa imasweka m'madzi osaya pamwamba pa mafunde akuthwa komanso amphanga," akutero Mozo. "Nthawi zambiri mukamajambula funde lalikulu ngati ili, mumakhala okonzeka kuti funde likunyamulani ndikuponyani. Koma ngati izi zichitika ndikuwombera Pipeline, pansi pamiyala kumatha kukugwetsani pansi, monga momwe adachitira abambo anga , pamenepa simukhala ndi nthawi yaitali kuti mapapo anu adzaze madzi—ndipo nthawi yatha.”

Ngakhale zoopsa zoonekeratu komanso zokumbukira zoyipa zomwe zimachitika chifukwa chowombera Pipeline, Mozo akuti akuyembekeza kuti adzalimbikanso kuthana ndi vutoli. Kenako, mwayi udabwera kumapeto kwa chaka chatha pomwe adalimbikitsidwa kuthana ndi mantha ake ndi wojambula mnzake waku North Shore surf, Zak Noyle. "Zak anali bwenzi la abambo anga, ndipo ndidamuuza kalekale kuti ndikufuna kuwombera Pipeline nthawi ina m'moyo wanga ndipo adangondiyang'ana ndikundifunsa kuti 'bwanji tsopano?'" akutero Mozo.

Panthawiyo, Volcom Pipe Pro ya 2018, mpikisano wapadziko lonse lapansi, inali patangotsala sabata imodzi, kotero Noyle ndi Mozo adagwirizana ndi Red Bull (omwe adathandizira pamwambowu) kuwombera Pipeline pomwe othamanga opanda mantha akuyenda.

"Tidangotsala ndi sabata imodzi kukonzekera kuwombera mwambowu, chifukwa chake ine ndi Zak tidakhala maola ambiri pagombe, tikuwona mafunde, tikuwona zomwe zikuchitika, ndikukambirana momwe tithandizira mosamala," akutero.

Noyle ndi Mozo adachita maphunziro a miyala, omwe amafunikira kusambira mpaka pansi pa nyanja, kunyamula thanthwe lalikulu, ndikuyenda pansi panyanja molimbika momwe mungathere malinga ndi momwe mungathere. "Kuphunzitsa kwamphamvu kwamtunduwu kumakuthandizaninso kuti muzipuma nthawi yayitali komanso kumakonzekeretsa thupi lanu kulimbana ndi mafunde amphamvu kwambiri padziko lapansi," akutero Mozo. (Zokhudzana: Kulimbitsa Thupi Mwamsanga kwa Surf-Inspired kwa Carved Core)

Mpikisanowo utayamba, Noyle adauza Mozo kuti achita izi-ngati nyengo ndi nyengo zikuwoneka bwino, asambira komweko pamisonkhano ndikujambula nthawi yomwe amaphunzitsidwa komanso mawonekedwe a Mozo. anali akuyembekezera kuwombera.

Atakhala m'mphepete mwa nyanjayi, atakhala nthawi yayitali akuwonera njira yolankhulirana pakadali pano, Noyle pomaliza adapereka kuwala kobiriwira ndikufunsa Mozo kuti amutsatire. "Iye anati, 'chabwino, tiyeni tizipita,' ndipo ndinalumphira mkati ndikuyamba kukankha mwamphamvu komanso mofulumira momwe ndikanathera mpaka titatha," akutero. (Zogwirizana: 5 Zoyeserera Panyanja Zoyeserera Kuti Akulitse Chilimwe Chabwino Kwambiri)

Mwakuthupi, kuyesa kumeneku kunali chinthu chachikulu kwa Mozo. Pali mtsinje wamtsinje womwe suli kutali kwambiri ndi gombe womwe ungathe kukusesani mtunda wamtunda kumtunda ngati mulibe mphamvu zokwanira kuti mudutse kapena osapeza nthawi yake bwino, koma adakwanitsa ndikudziwonetsa yekha. akhoza kuchita. "Muli ndi chisoti ndipo muli ndi kamera yayikulu yolemera pomwe mukusambira moyo wanu, kuyesera kupita kunja uko," akufotokoza Mozo. "Mantha anga akulu anali oti ndikalavulidwa mobwerezabwereza, ndikutha mphamvu zanga zonse, zomwe sizinachitike, ndipo linali dalitso lalikulu." (Zokhudzana: Zonse Zomwe Muyenera Kusambira Molimba M'nyanjayi)

Pamulingo wamalingaliro, kupanga izo pakuyesera kwake koyamba ndikudziwonera yekha funde kunathandiza Mozo kukhala pamtendere ndi imfa ya abambo ake. Iye anati: “Ndimamvetsa chifukwa chake bambo anga ankabwerako mlungu uliwonse komanso chifukwa chimene ankapitirizira kutero, ngakhale kuti zimenezi zinali zoopsa. "Kukhala pagombe moyo wanga wonse, sindinamvetsetse mphamvu zakuthupi ndi zamaganizidwe zomwe zimatengera kuwombera funde ili, zomwe zidandithandiza kuti ndimvetsetse zatsopano za abambo anga ndi moyo wawo."

Atakhala tsiku lonse akujambula mafunde komanso opikisana nawo, Mozo akuti adabwerera kumtunda ndikuzindikira zomwe zidamupatsa malingaliro atsopano pazokonda za abambo ake kujambula. "Pipi anali mnzake wa abambo anga," akutero. "Tsopano, kudziwa kuti adamwalira akuchita zomwe amakonda kumandisangalatsa kwambiri."

Onani zomwe zidatengera Mozo kuthana ndi mantha ake akulu muvidiyoyi ili pansipa:

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