Simudzawona Sasha DiGiulian Akukwera M'maseŵera a Olimpiki a 2020-Koma Ndi Chinthu Chabwino

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Pomwe Komiti Yapadziko Lonse ya Olimpiki idalengeza kuti kukwera kuyambitsa masewera ake a Olimpiki mu Masewera a Chilimwe a 2020 ku Tokyo, zidawoneka ngati zapatsidwa kuti Sasha DiGiulian - m'modzi mwa ocheperako, okwera kwambiri kunja uko - azikakhala akuponya golide. (Awa ndi masewera atsopano omwe muwona mu Masewera a Olimpiki a 2020.)

Kupatula apo, wazaka 25 sanakumanepo ndi mbiri yomwe sanathe kulemba: Anali mkazi woyamba waku North America kukwera kalasi ya 9a, 5.14d, yomwe imadziwika kuti ndiimodzi mwamasewera ovuta kwambiri omwe mkazi amakumana nawo ; wagwiritsa ntchito amayi okwana 30 oyamba kukwera padziko lonse lapansi, kuphatikiza kumpoto kwa Phiri la Eiger (lotchedwa "Murder Wall"); ndipo anali mkazi woyamba kumasuka kukwera Mora Mora wa 2,300-foot. Ngati iye akanati apikisane nawo mu Olimpiki, angatero ngakhale kukhala mpikisano?

Koma DiGiulian, yemwe adalembapo kale za kusiya maloto ake a Olimpiki atasiya masewera otsetsereka kuti akwere, sakukonzekera kubwereranso kumaloto chifukwa kukwera kuli m'Masewera tsopano-ndipo akuti ndi chinthu chabwino. Pambuyo pa kupambana kwake (DiGiulian anali Mkazi Wadziko Lonse wamkazi, Wopambana wa Pan-American Champion kwazaka khumi, komanso Wopambana National United States katatu), kukwera mpikisano kwasintha kukhala mtundu wina wamasewera ndi nyenyezi zatsopano, ndipo ali wokondwa kuwalola kuti awale.

Tithokoze mwa zina kwa okwera ngati DiGiulian, kukwera kukufikirako kuposa kale. Malo ochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi 43 atsopano adatsegulidwa ku United States mu 2017, chiwonjezeko cha 10 peresenti ndipo pafupifupi kuwirikiza kawiri kuchuluka kwa malo ochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi omwe adatsegulidwa chaka chatha. Ndipo akazi tsopano akuimira 38 peresenti ya onse okwera nawo mpikisano, malinga ndi International Federation of Sport Climbing. DiGiulian akufuna kuwona ziwerengerozi zikukwera; ndichifukwa chake, kupita patsogolo, akufuna kudzipereka kuti abweretse kukwera kwa anthu ambiri momwe angathere.

Pomwe ochita nawo mpikisano wakale adapikisana nawo pa International Federation of Sport Climbing World Cup ku GoPro Games, yothandizidwa ndi GMC, ku Vail, CO, DiGiulian adafotokoza zakukwera kwodziwika kwa kukwera, chifukwa chomwe akazi amakopeka ndi masewerawa, ndi zolinga zake kupitirira golide wa Olympic.

Maonekedwe: Kukwera kwawona kukwera kotereku pakutchuka pazaka zingapo zapitazi. Kodi ndi chifukwa chovomerezedwa ndi Olimpiki, kapena pali china chosewerera?

Sasha DiGiulian (SD): Pakhala pali kuwonjezeka kwakukulu kwakamalonda kwakukwera komwe kumatsegulidwa padziko lonse lapansi. Amatanthauziridwa ngati mtundu wina wathanzi: Ndizosavuta kutenga nawo mbali, ndizothandizana ndi anthu, zimalandira mitundu yonse ya matupi ndi kukula kwake, ndipo ndimasewera olimbitsa thupi kwathunthu. (Zochita izi zidzakuthandizani kukonzekera thupi lanu kukwera.)

Ndipo kukwera phiri kunali masewera olamulidwa ndi amuna, koma pali akazi ambiri kuposa kale lonse kukwera. Ndikuganiza kuti azimayi azindikira kuti mutha kukhala wamkazi ndikukhala bwino kwambiri kuposa anyamata aku masewera olimbitsa thupi. Ndikutanthauza, ndine 5'2'' ndipo mwachiwonekere sindine munthu wamkulu, wolimba mtima, koma ndimachita bwino ndi luso langa. Zonse ndi za chiŵerengero cha mphamvu ndi thupi, zomwe zimapangitsa kukhala masewera olandirira komanso osiyanasiyana.

Maonekedwe: Ndi akazi ambiri omwe akukwera mwaukadaulo, zinthu zafika pakupikisana?

Sd: Anthu okwera mapiri ndi ogwirizana kwambiri. Ichi ndi chimodzi mwazinthu zomwe ndimakonda kukwera. Tonsefe takumana ndi zofananira ndipo timakhala nthawi yayitali limodzi, motero timakhala abwenzi abwino. Mukalumikizidwa ndi chikhumbo chokulirapo chotere, ndikuganiza kuti zimakupangitsani kuti mukhale ndi zofanana zambiri momwe mungalumikizire bwino.

Ndikuganiza kuti chinthu chomwe chimalepheretsa azimayi kumasewera nthawi zina ndikusadziwa ngakhale kuyesa. Ndinali mkazi woyamba waku North America kukwera kalasi ya 9a, 5.14d, yomwe, panthawiyo, inali kukwera kovuta kwambiri komwe kunakhazikitsidwa ndi mayi padziko lapansi. Tsopano, mzaka zisanu ndi ziwiri zapitazi, pakhala azimayi ena ambiri omwe sanangokwaniritsa izi, koma akumangowonjezera ngati Margo Hayes, yemwe adachita 5.15a woyamba, ndi Angela Eiter, yemwe adachita 5.15b yoyamba . Ndikuganiza kuti m'badwo uliwonse udzakankha malire a zomwe zakwaniritsidwa. Akazi akachuluka, miyezo yomwe tiona ikawonongeka.(Nawa ena oyimba miyala a badass omwe angakulimbikitseni kuti muyese masewerawa.)

Maonekedwe: Kodi mumamva bwanji mukadzalowa nawo m'maseŵera a Olimpiki?

Sd: Ndine wokondwa kwambiri kuwona kukwera mu Olimpiki! Masewera athu adakula kwambiri, ndipo sindingathe kudikira kuti ndikwere nawo. Ndili kusekondale, ndinali m'modzi mwa ana ochepa omwe ankadziwa ngakhale kukwera kusukulu kwathu. Kenako ndinabwerera ndipo ndinalankhula kusukulu yanga chaka chapitacho ndipo panali ana pafupifupi 220 mu kalabu yokwera. Ndinali ngati, "Dikirani, anyamata inu simunadziwe zomwe ndikuchita kalelo!"

Kukwera kwakula komanso kusinthika kwambiri kuyambira pomwe ndidapambana Mpikisano Wadziko Lonse mu 2011-mawonekedwe ndi masitayilo asinthiratu. Ndimakonda kuwona momwe zikuyendera, koma sindinachitepo zina mwazomwe Olimpiki idzafuna, monga kukwera mwachangu [okwera nawo ayeneranso kupikisana pakumenya miyala ndikutsogolera kukwera]. Chifukwa chake ndikuganiza kuti loto la Olimpiki ndilofunika kwambiri m'badwo watsopano womwe ukukula ndi mtundu watsopanowu.

Maonekedwe: Zinali zovuta kuti musankhe kupikisana nawo kapena ayi?

Sd: Chinali chisankho chovuta kwambiri kupanga. Kodi ndikufuna kubwerera kumipikisano ndikudzipereka zaka zingapo zikubwerazi kukwera pulasitiki kumalo ochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi? Kapena ndikufuna kungotsatira zomwe ndikumverera momwe ndikufunira? Zomwe ndimamva kuti ndimakondadi ndikukwera panja. Sindikufuna kunyalanyaza kukhala panja, ndikuchita kukwera khoma kwakukulu komwe ndakonza, kuti ndikakhale mu masewera olimbitsa thupi ndi masewera olimbitsa thupi. Kuti ndipikisane nawo pamasewera a Olimpiki, ndimafunikira chidwi chathucho ndikusintha zomwe ndikuchita patsogolo. (Nazi malo 12 epic kukwera miyala musanamwalire.)

Koma zonse mu ntchito yanga, kupambana kulikonse komwe ndakhala nako, kwakhala chifukwa ndikuchita zomwe ndikufuna ndikutsatira zomwe ndimakonda. Sindikukonda kukwera masewera olimbitsa thupi, ndipo ngati ndilibe chidwi chotere, ndiye kuti sindichita bwino. Sindikumva ngati ndikuphonya, komabe, chifukwa ndawona malotowa akukwera mu Olimpiki-akwaniritsidwa. Ndine wonyadira masewera athu popanga izi.

Maonekedwe: Popeza kuti Masewera a Olimpiki achotsedwa, ndi zolinga ziti zomwe mukukwaniritsa pano?

Sd: Cholinga changa chachikulu ndikudziwitsa anthu ambiri momwe ndingathere kukwera ngati masewera. Ma media media yakhala galimoto yabwino kwambiri. M'mbuyomu, inali masewera osangalatsa; inu muzingochokapo ndi kukachita zanu. Tsopano, ulendo uliwonse womwe timatenga umakhala posanja anthu.

Ndili ndi mapulojekiti akuluakulu, okhazikika m'makwerero enaake omwe ndikufuna kukwaniritsa-ndingakonde kukwera koyambirira pa kontinenti iliyonse. Koma ndikufunanso kupanga mavidiyo odziwika bwino okhudza kukwera ngati njira yopita kuzinthu zina m'moyo, monga zokumana nazo zachikhalidwe zomwe ndimakhala nazo ndikamayenda. Ndikufuna kuti anthu amvetsetse kuti kukwera kungakhale chombo ichi kuti muwone dziko lapansi. Nthawi zambiri, zonse zomwe timawona ndimakanema omalizira, pomwe wokwera amakwera phompho lodabwitsa pamalo odabwitsa. Woyang'anayo amangodzifunsa kuti, "Mukafika bwanji kumeneko?" Ndikufuna kuwonetsa anthu kuti ndine munthu wanu wamba. Ndimachita, kuti inunso muthe. (Yambirani apa ndi Malangizo Akukwera Kwamwala kwa Oyamba ndi Zida Zofunika Kwambiri Zoyenda Pamwala Muyenera Kukwera Pakhoma.)

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