Momwe Rock Climber Emily Harrington Amayambitsira Mantha Kufikira Mapiri Atsopano

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Katswiri wochita masewera olimbitsa thupi, ovina, komanso othamangira ku ski paubwana wake, Emily Harrington anali wachilendo kuyesa kutha kwa mphamvu zake zakuthupi kapena kudziika pachiswe. Koma sizinali mpaka pamene anali ndi zaka 10, pamene anakwera pamwamba pa khoma lamwala lalitali, lopanda kuyima, pamene anayamba kuchita mantha.

"Kumva kwa mpweya pansi pamapazi anga kunali kowopsa kwenikweni, koma nthawi yomweyo, ndidakopeka ndikumverera koteroko," akutero Harrington. "Ndikuganiza kuti ndinamva ngati zinali zovuta."

Kukwera koyamba kwa mtima ku Boulder, Colorado kunayatsa chilakolako chake cha kukwera kwaulere, masewera omwe othamanga amakwera khoma pogwiritsa ntchito manja ndi mapazi okha, ndi chingwe chapamwamba chokha ndi chiuno kuti awagwire ngati agwa. Kumayambiriro kwa ntchito yake yokwera, Harrington adakhala katswiri wazaka zisanu ku US kukwera masewera ndipo adapeza malo papulatifomu ya International Federation of Sport Climbing mu 2005 World Championship. Koma wazaka 34 zakubadwa akuti sanawopepo chilichonse chokhudzana ndi kuthekera kugwa pansi kapena kuvulala kwambiri. M'malo mwake, akufotokoza kuti mantha ake amachokera pakuwonekera - akumva kuti nthaka ili kutali kwambiri - ndipo makamaka chiyembekezo chakulephera.

"Ndinalimbana kwambiri ndi lingaliro loti ndimaopa," akutero Harrington. "Nthawi zonse ndimangodziguguda chifukwa cha izi. Pambuyo pake, ndidasiya mantha anga oyamba chifukwa ndidayamba kuchita nawo mpikisano wokwera, koma ndikuganiza kuti chidwi changa chofuna kupambana ndikupambana pamipikisanoyo chimakhala chothetsa mantha ndi nkhawa mwanjira ina." (Zokhudzana: Kukumana ndi Mantha Potsiriza Kunandithandiza Kugonjetsa Nkhawa Yanga Yolemala)

Zaka zisanu zapitazo, Harrington anali wokonzeka kukwera mapiri ake kuti akalandire El Capitan, monolith wamiyala 3,000 mkati mwa Yosemite National Park. Ndipamene ngozi zenizeni zamasewera - za kuvulala kwambiri kapena kufa - zidakhala zenizeni. "Ndidadzipangira ndekha cholinga chachikulu chomwe sindimaganiza kuti chingatheke, ndipo ndimachita mantha kwambiri kuti ndiyese ndikuchifuna kuti chikhale changwiro," akukumbukira. "Koma kenako ndinazindikira kuti sizingakhale zangwiro." (BTW, kukhala wangwiro pa masewera olimbitsa thupi kumadza ndi zovuta zina.)

Inali nthawi imeneyo pamene Harrington akuti malingaliro ake a mantha adasinthidwa.Akuti adazindikira kuti mantha sichinthu chochititsa manyazi kapena "kugonjetsedwa," koma ndikumverera kokhwima, kwachilengedwe komwe kuyenera kuvomerezedwa. "Mantha amangopezeka mkati mwathu, ndipo ndikuganiza kuti ndizopanda pake kumva manyazi ena mozungulira," akufotokoza. "Chifukwa chake, m'malo moyesa kuthana ndi mantha anga, ndidangoyamba kuwazindikira ndi chifukwa chake mulipo, kenako ndikutenga nawo mbali kuti tigwiritse ntchito nawo, mwanjira ina, kuugwiritsa ntchito ngati mphamvu."

Chifukwa chake, "kuvomereza mantha ndikuwachita" amatanthauziranji zenizeni, pomwe Harrington ili pamtunda wokwera mtunda wa mamailosi? Zonsezi ndizovomerezeka pamalingaliro amenewo, kenako ndikupanga njira zaana - zenizeni komanso zophiphiritsira - kuti afike pamsonkhano pang'onopang'ono, akufotokoza. "Zili ngati kupeza malire anu ndikungodutsa nthawi zonse mpaka mutakwaniritsa cholinga," akutero. "Nthawi zambiri, ndimaganiza kuti timakhazikitsa zolinga ndipo zimawoneka ngati zazikulu kwambiri ndipo sizingatheke, koma mukazisintha kukhala zazing'ono, zimakhala zosavuta kuzimvetsa." (Zokhudzana: 3 Zolakwitsa Zomwe Anthu Amapanga Pokhazikitsa Zolimbitsa Thupi, Malinga ndi Jen Widerstrom)

Koma ngakhale Harrington sangagonjetsedwe - china chomwe chidatsimikizika chaka chatha pomwe adagwa mamita 30 poyesa kachitatu kugonjetsa El Capitan, ndikumugwetsera kuchipatala ndikumupweteketsa komanso kuvulala msana. Chothandizira chachikulu pakugwa koyipa: Harrington adakhala womasuka kwambiri, wodzidalira kwambiri, akutero. "Sindinamvepo mantha," akuwonjezera. "Izi zidandipangitsa kuti ndiziwonanso kuchuluka kwa kuleza mtima ndikuzindikira nthawi yobwererera komanso momwe ndingasinthire izi mtsogolo."

Idagwira ntchito: Mu Novembala, Harrington pomaliza adaitanitsa El Capitan, kukhala mayi woyamba kukwera mumsewu wa Thanthwe la Golden Gate pasanathe maola 24. Kukhala ndi chidziwitso chonse chofunikira, kulimbitsa thupi, ndi maphunziro - kuphatikiza mwayi pang'ono - adamuthandiza kuthana ndi chilombo chaka chino, koma Harrington makamaka amamupangitsa kuti apambane pazaka makumi angapo mpaka kufikila kunjira iyi ya mantha. "Ndikuganiza kuti zomwe zandithandiza ndikumamatira kukwera akatswiri," akufotokoza. "Zinandithandiza kuyesa zinthu zomwe poyamba zingawoneke ngati zosatheka, mwina pang'ono kwambiri, ndikupitirizabe kuyesa chifukwa ndizochitika zabwino komanso kuyesa kozizira pofufuza momwe anthu amamvera."

Ndipo ndi kufunafuna moyo uku ndi kukula kwaumwini komwe kumabwera ndi kukumbatirana mantha - osati kutchuka kapena maudindo - zomwe zimayendetsa Harrington kuti afike pamalo apamwamba lero. “Sindinayambepo n’cholinga choti ndikhale wopambana, ndinkangofuna kukhala ndi cholinga chosangalatsa ndikuwona mmene zakhalira,” akutero. "Koma chimodzi mwazifukwa zomwe ndikukwera ndikuganiza mozama za zinthu monga zoopsa komanso mitundu ya zoopsa zomwe ndikufuna kutenga. Ndipo ndikuganiza zomwe ndazindikira pazaka zapitazi ndikuti ndimatha kuchita zambiri kuposa momwe ndimaganizira."

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