Kodi Mannequins Amatayika Motani?

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Ubale wamafashoni ndi mawonekedwe amthupi ndiwodziwikiratu kuti ndi ovuta. Zokambirana zokhudzana ndi nkhaniyi nthawi zambiri zimafotokoza mavuto monga kufalikira kwa mitundu yopyapyala kwambiri pamisewu yampikisano komanso pamakampeni otsatsa. Koma zithunzi zowonongekazi nthawi zina zimakumana ndi ife zenizeni zenizeni, komanso, takhala tikukambirana za mannequins ogulitsa, omwe nthawi zambiri amakhala owonda kwambiri kuposa kukula 2 komwe kwakhala koyenera pakati pa mitundu. Makampani monga Topshop ndi Oasis adayatsidwa moto chaka chino chifukwa chogwiritsa ntchito mannequins owonda kwambiri; ogulitsa awa aku Britain adayankhapo madandaulo, koma malo ogulitsa padziko lonse lapansi amagwiritsa ntchito mazenera omwe ali ndi mawonekedwe osagwirizana ndi thupi.

Malinga ndi The Guardian, "avareji" mannequin amatalika mozungulira mapazi asanu ndi limodzi, ndi kuphulika kwa mainchesi 34, chiuno cha mainchesi 24, ndi chiuno cha mainchesi 34, ndi ana a ng'ombe, akakolo, ndi manja opapatiza kwambiri. Mosakayikira, ndizotalikirana ndi kukula kwa amayi aku America 14 (omwe, malinga ndi ogulitsa ambiri ngati J.Crew, amafanana ndi kuphulika kwa mainchesi 40.5, chiuno cha 33 inchi, ndi chiuno cha inchi 43).

Nanga bwanji kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa mawindo a sitolo ndi zenizeni? Malingana ndi akatswiri, kusiyana kumeneku kumachokera ku malonda osavuta. Mofanana ndi mitundu yowonda yomwe ikutsetsereka pamsewu, cholinga cha mannequins ndikugulitsa maloto. A Kathleen Hammond, omwe ndi a VP a maakaunti ogulitsa ku Goldsmith omwe amagulitsa mannequin ku New York, adalongosola kuti m'masitolo amagula mannequins omwe amakhulupirira kuti adzagulitsa zovala zambiri. "Zitsanzo zomwe zimayenda pa runways ndizochepera 2 kapena 0," adatero."Mannequins awa amatsanzira [chiwerengerocho], chifukwa ogulitsa amakhulupirira kuti zimapangitsa kuti malonda awo aziwoneka bwino kwambiri." Mosasamala kanthu kuti malingaliro awa ndiowona, pali chenjezo lofunika: Ndi miyendo yawo yopyapyala, matupi osalala, ndi miyendo yayitali mtunda, mafano opanda mawonekedwe awa samawoneka ngati anthu enieni konse. Mneneri wa Oasis adagwiritsa ntchito lingaliroli ngati chodzikhululukira cha ziphuphu zomwe anali nazo ku Refinery29 koyambirira kwa mwezi uno. "Mannequins athu m'sitolo adapangidwa mwaluso kwambiri kuti ayimire pulogalamu yokometsera ndipo samayesayesa kuwonetsa molondola zenizeni," adatero.

Ngakhale mannequins sangasokonezedwe ndi anthu enieni, akadali oimira zovala, ogulitsa, ndi makasitomala abwino. Monga Lisa Mauer wa kampani yopanga mankhusu Siegal & Stockman ananenera, "Mukufuna mannequin yanu iwonetse malingaliro a yemwe mukufuna kuti shopper wanu akhale."

Mauer amatchulanso ojambula ngati Alberto Giacometti ndi ziboliboli zake zodziwika bwino monga kudzoza kumbuyo kwa ziboliboli za mannequins. Ndipo ngati mukuganiza kuti mannequins amafunika kukhala owonda kwa ogulitsa kuti azitha kuwaveka, sizomwe zili choncho. Onse a Hammond ndi Mauer adatsutsa lingaliro loti kuchuluka kwa mannequin kumakhudza magwiridwe antchito. "Mannequins amasiyana chimodzimodzi, chifukwa chake zilibe kanthu kuti ndi akulu kapena ang'ono bwanji - mannequin wokulirapo amasiyana chimodzimodzi monga wamba," akufotokoza Hammond. Komabe, pali maubwino angapo ofunikira pakukokomeza kwa mannequins. Mawonekedwe awo akulu ndi miyendo yayitali (nthawi zambiri yopindika pang'ono) amalepheretsa mathalauza kuti asagwere pansi. Kuphatikiza apo, matupi olumikizidwawa amawoneka bwino kuposa momwe makasitomala amaonera, omwe nthawi zambiri amakhala pamwambapa kapena pansipa.

Malinga ndi nkhani yofalitsidwa ndi a Magazini ya Smithsonian mu 1991, mannequins akhala akucheperachepera ngati anthu m'zaka zapitazi. Mwamsanga pambuyo poyambitsa mannequin yoyamba ya thupi lonse ku France mu 1870, masitolo enanso adatsatira. Kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1900 ndi kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1900, zitsanzo zam'sitolozi zidapangidwa ndi mitu ya sera yowoneka bwino kwambiri, ndipo inali ndi zinthu zambiri monga maso agalasi komanso mawigi (ndipo nthawi zina, ngakhale mano onyenga). Mpaka zaka za 1920 pomwe wopanga mannequin Siegel & Stockman adayamba kugwiritsa ntchito pepala-mache (m'malo mwa zida zam'mbuyomu monga nkhuni ndi phula) pomwe zidazo zidakhala zosamveka. Masiku ano, mannequins amapangidwa kuchokera kuzinthu monga pulasitiki ndi fiberglass, ndipo nkhope zawo zimasalazidwa popanda zosiyanitsa-ngati angakhale ndi mitu konse.

Komabe, ngati mitundu yayikulu kwambiri imagulitsa zovala zambiri, ndipo cholinga cha mannequins ndikupeza phindu, ndiye bwanji osangovomereza mannequin ya "avareji"? Zikuwoneka zopusa kwambiri, poganizira kuti ogulitsa ambiri awonjezera zopereka zawo mpaka kukula kwa 4XL - komabe amakana kuvomereza makasitomala awa m'mawindo awoawo. Zifanizo za m'masitolo zakhala zikugwiritsidwa ntchito pofotokoza zachikazi, jenda, ndi mawonekedwe am'mbuyomu, koma kupatula kampeni yayikulu, mannequins apakatikati ndi ochepa.

Mauer amalimbikitsa izi kuti pali mitundu ingapo yamitundumitundu yosayimira. Ngakhale iye (ndi Hammond) onse amafulumira kunena kuti zitsanzo zazing'ono komanso zazikuluzikulu zimagulitsidwadi kwa ogulitsa, kukhala ndi gulu la mannequins osasinthasintha ndiyo njira yabwino kwambiri yogulitsira. "Monga panjira yothamangira ndege, muyenera kukhalanso chimodzimodzi," adatero Mauer. "Zingakhale zabwino kukhala ndi mitundu yonse ya matupi oimiridwa, koma chifukwa cha malo ochepa m'sitolo, kukhala ndi kufanana ndikofunikira kuti uthenga ubwere." Zikuwonekabe ngati kulandilidwa kwaposachedwa kwa azimayi olimba pamseu wampikisano komanso m'makampeni kungatanthauzire kugulitsa. Koma ndi ogulitsa ogulitsa, monga departmenthléns wogulitsa ku Sweden, akutulutsa bwino mannequins opitilira muyeso, akuyembekeza kuti mitundu ina ituluke mu nkhungu (momwemonso) ndikutsatira.

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