Chifukwa Chimene Muyenera Kuwonjeza Lactic, Citric, ndi Ma Acid Ena ku Khungu Lanu Losamalira Khungu

Zamkati

• Mankhwala a Mandelic
• Lactic acid
• Mankhwala a Malic
• Azelaic Acid
• Phytic Acid
• Matenda a Tartaric
• Mankhwala a Citric
• Zabwino Kwambiri
• Onaninso za

Pamene glycolic acid idayambitsidwa koyambirira kwa zaka za m'ma 1990, zinali zosintha posamalira khungu. Imadziwika kuti alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), inali chinthu choyamba chomwe mungagwiritse ntchito kunyumba kuti muthamangitse kuwotcha kwa khungu lakufa ndikuwulula khungu lopyapyala, losalala, lonyowa pansi. Pambuyo pake tidamva kuti zotumphukira nzimbe zingathandizenso kupanga khungu lanu la kolajeni.

Kenako panabwera salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) yomwe imatha kusungunula sebum buildup mkati mwa pores ndikuchita ngati anti-yotupa, zomwe zimapangitsa khungu lofiira, lokwiya, lotupa. (Onani: Kodi Salicylic Acid Ndi Zozizwitsa Zotani Zopangira Ziphuphu?) Zotsatira zake, glycolic acid inakhala muyezo wagolide wa antiaging ndipo salicylic acid inakhala anti-acne darling. Izi sizinasinthe kwenikweni mpaka posachedwapa.

Tsopano mankhwala ena osamalira khungu ali ndi zidulo zosadziwika bwino monga mandelic, phytic, tartaric, ndi lactic. Chifukwa chiyani zowonjezera? "Ndikuganiza za glycolic ndi salicylic acids monga otsogolera pamasewero ndi ma acid enawa monga othandizira. Onse akamagwira ntchito pamodzi, amatha kukonza zopanga, "akutero. Maonekedwe Membala wa Brain Trust Neal Schultz, MD, dermatologist ku New York City.

Othandizira othandizirawa amachita bwino pazifukwa ziwiri. Choyamba, ngakhale ma acid ambiri amathandizira kutulutsa, "aliyense amachita chinthu chimodzi chothandiza pakhungu," akutero katswiri wapakhungu ku NYC, Dennis Gross, MD. (Zokhudzana: Zosakaniza 5 Zosamalira Khungu Zomwe Zimachotsa Khungu Losasunthika ndi Kukuthandizani Kuwala Kuchokera Mkati) Chifukwa chachiwiri ndi chakuti kugwiritsa ntchito ma asidi ambiri pamagulu otsika (m'malo mwa amodzi omwe ali pamwamba kwambiri) kungapangitse kuti fomuyi ikhale yosakwiyitsa. "M'malo mongowonjezera asidi m'modzi pa 20%, ndimakonda kuwonjezera zidulo zinayi pa 5% kuti ndikwaniritse zotsatira zofananazo ndi mwayi wocheperako kufiira," akutero Dr. Gross. (FYI, gulu la ma acid ndi matsenga kumbuyo kwa Phazi la Ana.)

Ndiye ndi zabwino ziti zomwe awa-and-comers amapereka? Timaziwononga:

Mankhwala a Mandelic

Ili ndi molekyu yayikulu kwambiri, motero siyilowerera pakhungu kwambiri. "Izi zimapangitsa kuti zikhale bwino kwa mitundu yovuta kwambiri chifukwa kulowa mozama kumatanthauza kuchepa kwa mkwiyo," Dr. Gross akutero. Renée Rouleau, katswiri wa zamatsenga ku Austin, akuti AHA iyi ingathandizenso "kuletsa kupanga pigment yambiri." Ndi chenjezo limodzi. "Mandelic acid imathandizira kutulutsa bwino ndikuchepetsa kukwiya kophatikizana ndi glycolic, lactic, kapena salicylic, koma mwina sikokwanira kuti wosewera mphamvu akhalepo pa chinthu chokha."

Lactic acid

Zakhalapo kwa nthawi yayitali-Cleopatra adagwiritsa ntchito mkaka wowonongeka m'mabafa ake cha m'ma 40 BCE chifukwa mkaka wachilengedwe wa lactic acid unathandizira kuchotsa khungu loyipa - koma sanapezepo kutchuka kwa glycolic chifukwa siwolimba, zomwe zitha kukhala zowopsa. chinthu chabwino. Lactic ndi molekyulu yayikulu, motero ndi njira yothandiza yamafuta osavuta, ndipo mosiyana ndi mandelic, ndiyamphamvu mokwanira kukhala wosewera patsogolo pazogulitsa. Dr. Gross akufotokoza kuti lactic acid imamangirizanso pamwamba pa khungu ndipo imapangitsa kuti ipange ceramides, yomwe imathandiza kuti chinyezi chisamalowemo komanso kuti zipse. (Mwinanso mudamvapo za lactic acid ponena za kutopa kwa minofu ndi kuchira.)

Mankhwala a Malic

Kudyetsedwa makamaka kuchokera ku maapulo, AHA iyi imaperekanso zabwino zoletsa kukalamba monga lactic acid, koma "ndi yofatsa kwambiri," akutero Debra Jaliman, MD, dokotala wa khungu ku New York City. Mukawonjezeredwa ngati chothandizira mu fomu yomwe ili ndi zidulo zamphamvu monga lactic, glycolic, ndi salicylic, zimathandizira kutulutsa bwino komanso kukondoweza kwa ceramide.

Azelaic Acid

Palibe AHA kapena BHA, azelaic acid, yochokera ku tirigu, rye, kapena balere, "ali ndi antibacterial komanso anti-inflammatory properties, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zothandiza kwa acne kapena rosacea," akutero Jeremy Brauer, MD, dermatologist ku New York. . Amachiza zonsezi ndikutsikira m'matumba, ndikupha mabakiteriya aliwonse mkati mwake ndikuthana ndi kutupa komwe kumayambitsidwa ndi matenda. Azelaic acid amathanso "kuyimitsa kupanga melanin yochulukirapo yomwe imayambitsa mawanga amdima, ziphuphu, ndi zigamba zosagwirizana pakhungu," akutero Dr. Jaliman. Ndizoyenera khungu lakuda (mosiyana ndi hydroquinone ndi ma lasers ena) chifukwa palibe chiopsezo chonamizira kapena kutengeka mtima, ndipo amavomerezedwa kwa amayi apakati ndi oyamwitsa. Ndizabwino kwambiri chifukwa "azimayi ambiri ali ndi vuto la melasma komanso zopumira pathupi," akutero Dr. Jaliman. (Umu ndi momwe mungatulutsire khungu lanu ndi mankhwala a lasers ndi khungu.)

Phytic Acid

Asidi ena omwe si AHA kapena BHA, chotulukapo ichi ndi antioxidant, motero chimathandiza kupewa zowononga zowononga khungu. Itha kupewanso mitu yakuda ndikuchepetsa pores. "Phytic acid imagwira ntchito poyambitsa calcium, yomwe imadziwika kuti ndi yoipa pakhungu," akutero Dr. Gross. "Calcium imasintha mafuta akhungu lanu kuchoka kumadzimadzi kukhala phula, ndipo ndi phula lolimba lomwe limakhala mkati mwa zibowo, zomwe zimabweretsa mitu yakuda ndikutambasula ma pores kuti ziwoneke zokulirapo." (Izi ndi zonse zomwe muyenera kudziwa za kuchotsa mitu yakuda.)

Matenda a Tartaric

AHA iyi imachokera ku mphesa zofufumitsa ndipo imawonjezeredwa ku glycolic kapena lactic acid formulas kuti alimbikitse kutsika kwawo. Koma phindu lake lalikulu ndikumatha kuwongolera muyeso wa pH. "Ma Acid amadziwika ndi kusintha kwa pH, ndipo ngati akukwera kwambiri kapena kutsika kwambiri pa chinthu, zotsatira zake zimakhala zowawa pakhungu," Rouleau akutero. "Tartaric acid ingathandize kuti zinthu zisamayende bwino." (Zogwirizana: 4 Zinthu Zachabechabe Zomwe Zikupangitsa Khungu Lanu Kuchepetsa)

Mankhwala a Citric

Mofanana ndi tartaric, citric acid, AHA yomwe imapezeka makamaka mu mandimu ndi mandimu, imasunganso ma asidi ena mkati mwa pH yotetezeka. Kuphatikiza apo, imagwira ntchito ngati chodzitetezera, kupangitsa njira zosamalira khungu kuti zizikhala zatsopano. Pomaliza, citric acid ndi chelator, kutanthauza kuti amachotsa zonyansa zonyansa (kuchokera ku mpweya, madzi, ndi zitsulo zolemera) pakhungu. Dr. "Ndimakonda kuziganizira ngati Pac-Man wa khungu." (PS muyeneranso kuwerenga pa microbiome ya khungu lanu.)

Zabwino Kwambiri

Yesani mankhwalawa okhala ndi asidi kuti muwonjezere kuwala.

• Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer ($ 68; sephora.com) ili ndi ma acid asanu ndi awiri.
• Njovu Omwa T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($ 90; sephora.com) zimawukanso mukamagona.
• The wamba Azelaic Acid Kuyimitsidwa 10% ($8; theordinary.com) toni yofanana.
• BeautyRx wolemba Dr. Schultz Advanced 10% Exfoliating Pads ($70; amazon.com) imasalala, imawala, ndi makampani.
• Dr. Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($ 72; sephora.com) amapatsa khungu mlingo wa sabata wama asidi asanu.

Onaninso za